Bukit Brown: World Monuments Watch 2014

by Catherine Lim

The tour on Sunday 22 July,  starts off rather ignominiously atop a pedestrian bridge which spans a busy dual carriageway and ends with a touch of the macabre, sitting on tombstones under a shady tree.

Jon Cooper holding participants captive atop the bridge over Lornie/Sime Road (photo Bianca Polak)

Welcome to Jon Cooper’s Battlefield Tour of Cemetery Hill aka Bukit Brown Cemetery. The 2 hour tour’s main route takes you mostly along side the greens of one of Singapore’s most exclusive private golf course and club. As Jon paints a picture of the battleground -literally the blood sweat and tears –  I gaze out at the golfers  blissfully unaware the ground they are strolling was once a battlefield. But I am moving ahead of the tour here.

(photo Catherine Lim)

Crossing the bridge to once no man’s land (photo Bianca Polak)

The view which sets the geographical location of the battleground, now imagine it  wild and green (photo Bianca Polak)

Heritage marker which I reckon only gets a  passing glance from bus commuters and joggers in the area ( photo Bianca Polak)

The Shinto Shrine which British POWs helped to build for the Japanese, traces of which are  still at MacRitchie Reservoir but off limits to the public  (photo Bianca Polak)

(photo Bianca Polak)

Turning into Sime Road SICC, on the left beyond the tall hedges  Seh Ong Cemetery (photo Bianca Polak)

Some found an entrance to the hedges (photo Claire Leow)

We shared the narrow road with vehicles (photo Claire Leow)

Much safer to walk on the soft greens as this mother and daughter team demonstrate (photo Claire Leow)

A lovely bungalow which once served as the Japanese Command Centre (photo Bianca Polak)

Cool green corridors punctuate the route until the third stop (photo Claire Leow)

Third stop 64 Sime Road – The ideal Command House for the British before the war, but there not enough time to consolidate before the Japanese was upon the area (photo Bianca Polak)

Postscript : 64 Sime Road. Post-war building, known as ‘Air House’, official residence of the ‘Commanders-in-Chief and Commanders of the Far East Air Force from 1949 until November 1970’. Far East Air Force was FEAF (pronounced Fee-Eff). HQ FEAF was here in Singapore, the area of operations was from the east of Ceylon to the Solomon Islands in the Pacific, north to southern China and south to East Timor.

Under the shady tree outside number 64 Sime Road, Jon continues the story  of brave men from both sides and the battle they faced (photo Claire Leow)

With keen interest from above (photo Bianca Polak)

The layout of the Camp (photo Bianca Polak)

Jon’s most diligent student, he had already been on Jon’s Curator’s Tour of the Adam Road project which was held at the NLB (photo Claire Leow)

And the unexpected surprise of this tour, the caretaker on his own initiative decides we should be let into the ground of number 64 after observing we had been there for some 20 minutes ( photo Claire Leow)

Inside grounds of 64, a majestic Command House after the war (photo Bianca Polak)

3 plaques noting the history of Command House (photo Bianca Polak)

The history of the house in a plaque (photo Claire Leow)

An unexpected bonus for Jon as he is reunited with the insignia of his regiment top row (photo Claire Leow)

Beautiful wrought iron windows (photo Catherine Lim)

Inside, workers who have been maintaining the house, which we suspect will be up for rent soon (photo Claire Leow)

The back of 64 (photo Claire Leow)

Overlooks a pool (photo Bianca Polak)

A corner of wild in the grounds (photo Bianca Polak)

And a glimpse of manicured grounds and a deck retreat (photo Bianca Polak)

The deck perfect for breakfast, yoga or a nice read (photo Catherine Lim)

The Group photo, all thought this would make a marvelous war museum for Adam Park and wondered how much was the rent (photo Claire Leow)

As we continued to our fourth stop, from where we stood, we saw this idyllic scene (photo Bianca Polak)

It was here, a 100 metres opposite no, 64 (back on the road heading back to Lornie Rd) under the by now scorching sun that Jon showed us the lay of the land and the battleground ahead at Bukit Brown (photo Claire Leow)

Here is an extract of the battle on the evening of 14th Feb 1942  from an earlier post

The gunners’ targets were the men of the 4^th Suffolks, a fresh-faced territorial battalion of the 18^th Division who had only landed in Singapore two weeks earlier. The Suffolks, raised from the country towns and farming communities of East Anglia, had already seen combat up at Bukit Tinggi and had been forced to retreat back towards the Lornie Road by the relentless drive of the IJA’s elite 5^th Division. The Suffolk’s hasty withdrawal and the stubborn defence of Adam Park by the 1^st Battalion Cambridgeshires had allowed the men to establish new positions overlooking the eastern end of the SICC golf course and southern tributaries of the MacRitchie Reservoir. They were all that stood between Yamashita’s army and the all important water pumping stations at Thompson Village and Woodleigh. That evening Yamashita’s exhausted and battle weary troops were to launch one final effort to break through to the east. The leading units of the 11^th Regiment of the 5^th Division were by now running short of ammunition and artillery shells and the bombardment and attack was to be their final assault. It was to be a ‘make or break’ attack on the hills of Bukit Brown.

At dusk the 3^rd Battalion, 11^thRegiment led by Colonel Ichikawa surged up the Sime Road and charged across the Lornie Road. Colonel Shimada’s tank company parked up on the fairways of the golf course provided covering fire and his men witnessed the arms and legs of the defending Suffolks fly up into the air with every explosion. He watched as the screaming infantry disappeared into the murk and smoke along the tree line on Hill 130 then to his relief saw the torch lights and flares signal the successful capture of the temple complex. The attack had been a total success; those Suffolks that had not fled or been blown to bits by the barrage had been bayoneted in their trenches. The way was open to Thomson Village; surely Singapore would now surrender.”

The tour continued back to the main road where the group cut through a jogging path in the nature reserve for the most visible evidence of war.

The entrance to the nature reserve to look for trenches (photo Bianca Polak)

Walking off track into the reserve (photo Catherine Lim)

And you have to watch where you are going in case you fall into this hole which will fit a man “comfortably ” (photo Bianca Polak)

Jon wonders what he is going to find if he digs deeper into the hole (photo Claire Leow)

Bukit Brown volunteer guide Keng Kiat, decides to check out the trench remotely (Photo Claire Leow)

And then it was a much slower walk back across the bridge to Bukit Brown (photo Bianca Polak)

This young chap seems to be charging ahead with gusto for the next leg of the tour (photo Claire Leow)

Here, Jon gets a break while BB volunteer guide Claire Leow explains some of the features of a Chinese tomb. This one is the largest single occupant tomb belonging to Onn Choon Neo. The soldiers would probably have found this useful (photo Bianca Polak)

But Jon explains how scary this terrain must have been to the Suffolk boys. Yes they could hide, but bullets could ricochet of the stones and they were be hit, If they decided to make a run for it, they face the swords of the Japanese. It was a grim prospect (photo Catherine Lim)

(photo Claire Leow)

This was our own Ms G.I. Jane who lasted the whole tour but there was one last stop! (photo Claire Leow)

Making tracks for the last stop (photo Claire Leow)

Our final “resting” place. There used to be a temple here which Colonel Ichikawa had spotted from way across  the golf course which was the target of his capture. (photo Claire Leow)

What were Job Cooper’s parting shots to the participants of his tour? (photo Claire Leow)

If you want to know what Jon’s parting words to us was, look out for the next Battlefield at Cemetery Hill Tour , hopefully at the end of August. It’s not a difficult terrain to traverse and as I said the main route is pass the golf course but it is hot and humid.  Jon is a passionate war archaeologist who with his team has uncovered intimate details about the men who fought in this battle on both sides of the divide . He draws you into the theatre of war with much verve, is great with kids and I was captivated (no pun intended!)

About Jon Cooper :  He is an expat,  a graduate from the Centre for Battlefield Archaeology at Glasgow University. He has spent the last three years working as the project manager alongside his partners in the Singapore Heritage Society and the National University of Singapore, for The Adam Park Project; a study into the archaeological record of the battle for the estate and the subsequent POW camp that was established there in 1942. The project’s findings r went  on show at the National Library in an exhibition entitled ‘Four Days in February earlier this year. The exhibition is now over. and Jon reports, some of the exhibits has had to be stored in his home, where his sons have tremendous fun with their own battle ground”

Back in May, when the course was conducted  Zaiton in green top beside her in white T is Francis (photo Catherine Lim)

A training course for tertiary student guides  conducted by Raymond Goh,  with one module by Lai Chee Kien, NUS Architecture Faculty who is also on the documentation team, took place over 2 half days In May . This is a report from the first tour conducted by 2″graduates” Francis Zhang and Zaiton Seah – our new and probably youngest brownies

1^st July

The day of our inaugural tour!

Zaiton and I made it a point to get down to BBC early and we reached before 8.30am. The weather looked pretty good and the cloudy sky promised a cooling morning. We took the seats below the huge rain tree at the roundabout and put on our battle amour against the mosquitoes, while waiting for the tour participants to arrive.

Safety briefing and introduction (photo Peter Pak)

By 9am, the majority of the participants had arrived so we made our way to the meeting place – the gates of BBC. We started the tour off by declaring that we were first-timers and that any lack of experience should be forgiven! Of course, this was unnecessary because the group turned out to be nice, attentive and patient people.

After the safety briefing, we set off toward the Group 1 (part of Hill 5) graves.

The three Group 1 graves we covered are:

Tay Koh Yat – owner of the largest bus operator in early 1940s (120 buses); leader of a 20,000-strong defence force during the war.

Tay Koh Yat tomb (photo Peter Pak)

Francis explains tomb design and inscriptions (photo Catherine Lim)

I took the opportunity to explain to the group regarding tomb design, including the different materials used to build a tomb and some of the fengshui involved.

Fang Shan – famous for being the oldest tomb in BBC (died in 1833).

Tan Cheng Siong – paternal grandmother of President Tony Tan was the third stop. We then continued to the Group 2 graves, which are coincidentally located at Hill 2. During the walk, Peter Pak, with his extensive knowledge in botanology (at least relative to us!), pointed out various beautiful flora to the tour participants.

A blossom spotted still yet to be identified along Hill 5 enroute to Hill 2(photo Catherine Lim)

Dried fungi picked up by participant (photo Catherine Lim)

The fungi “fresh” (photo Catherine Lim)

One of the observer’s on tour brought his whole clan later (photo Peter Pak)

We were being “observed” from above (photo Catherine)

Peter Pak lends some weight to the students tour (photo Catherine Lim)

We covered quite a few graves at Group 2:

Cheong Koon Seng – a famous Anglo-Chinese School alumnus who had a road named after him before a short trek uphill for one of the highlights in tomb design

Heading towards the spectacular art deco tomb (photo Catherine Lim)

Lim Kee Soo (photo Peter Pak)

Zaiton drawing attention to Lee Lim Soo art deco features (photo by Peter Pak)

Lee Kim Soo – the owner of Elkayes matchbox company and husband to five wives; his tomb, with art deco designs, is a mystery and wonder to behold.

Wee Chim Yean – Kapitan Cina of Bengkalis; even the plants and tree that partially cover his tomb cannot hide the beauty of the intricate carvings on this old tomb.

See Tiong Wah – one of the most important people buried at BBC. Without him and Tan Kheam Hock, who were both Municipal Commissioners, BBC would not have been opened to the wider Chinese community for burial.

Khoo Kay Hian – most famous as the founder of Kay Hian & Co, which merged with UOB Securities to form UOB Kay Hian.

Tan Yong Thian – the first producer of essential oil in South-east Asia, this individual is a fine example of entrepreneurship.

Zaiton and Francis recounting the life of an early entrepreneur who was an exception in private life with one wife (photo Catherine Lim)

Tan  Yong Tians buried with his wife who died. He died within one month of his  wife died. Their graves were restored last year by their granddaughter (photo Catherine Lim)

While heading back to the main road from Tan’s grave, it started to rain! Many of us got wet before we could pull out our umbrellas and one of the participants even slipped on some bricks and fell (fortunately she was not injured). After taking shelter under a big tree for five minutes, the rain, having exacted enough misfortune for the day, thinned and eventually stopped. We took the opportunity and marched on to the last stops of the day:

1830s cluster – a cluster of headstones depicting different reign years from Chinese emperors.

Teo Chin Chay – most famous for the two topless angels by his tomb!

Naked Angel  at Teo Chin Chay cluster. He is buried with all 3 of his wives (photo Catherine Lim)

With that, we finished the Group 2 graves. On the way back, Peter Pak took us on a detour and managed to cover some graves at the other side of Hill 5 (Groups 3 and 4). Zaiton and I concluded the tour with heartfelt appreciation flowing from both the participants and us. We then headed off to a much needed lunch!

In lieu of a group photo as “veterans” forgot to take one for the students at Tay Koh Tomb where the tour had started (photo Peter Pak)

Overall, we think that it has been a smooth and memorable tour. We are really grateful towards Peter and Catherine (proud veterans of the BBC community!), who helped us a lot and filled up the gaps whenever we left out something in our explanation. Most important of all, we really appreciate the participants taking time to come down on a Sunday morning (which is frequently best spent sleeping in) and giving us their utmost attention. Just as it takes two hands to clap, it takes both volunteering tour guides as well as tour participants to keep the spirit of the BBC community going. We look forward to our next tour!

Editors note: We understand Francis and Zaiton are planning their next tour weekend of 14th July. Do look out for it. And of course they passed with flying colours.

The Peranakan Trail was customised for the Peranakan Association and guided by Chew Keng Kiat, Peter Pak and Gan Su-lin. This report was documented and contributed by Gan Su-lin.

A group photo by which to remember the Peranakan Association of Singapore’s visit to Bukit Brown. They reported enjoying the learning journey and the Brownies had lots of fun too (photo Gan Su-lin)

Lovely overcast and breezy day for a guided visit. Today’s tour for the Peranakan Association of Singapore took in the graves of Peranakan pioneers who have left legacies through their own commercial, political, or social endeavours, or the efforts of the illustrious descendants they produced (photo Gan Su-lin)

First stop, Mrs Tan Cheng Siong, the grandmother of current President of Singapore, Tony Tan Keng Yam. (photo Gan Su-lin)

Visitors were particularly impressed by the tomb photo of Mrs Tan Cheng Siong; minimally degraded after many decades of weather exposure. (photo Gan Su-lin)

Brownie Peter Pak regaling the visitors with an explanation of tomb brickwork while waving sprigs of Piper sarmentosum and Murraya koenigii leaves used in Peranankan cooking . (photo Gan Su-lin)

One of the rewards of Brownie work is reuniting descendants with their long-lost forefathers. Cheong Koon Seng’s descendant in a quiet moment at the Koon Seng cluster of grave (photo Gan Su-lin)

The cameras were whipped out a lot today and, hopefully, there will be another write-up on BB in the Association’s publications (photo Gan Su-lin)

More on Cheong Choon Seng here

It’s not a flourishing bunga raya bush. It’s Peter Pak! (photo Gan Su-lin)

Keng Kiat introduces the visitors to Tan Yong Thian, pioneering distiller of the essential oil, patchouli. They marveled at the tomb restoration work undertaken by grand-daughter, Brownie Tachi (大姐）Rosalind Tan. (photo Gan Su-lin)

Visiting Khoo Kay Hian, pioneer stock broker was an opportunity to see first-hand a different grave design and style. (photo Gan Su-lin)

“If you look over there, you’ll see we’re now on a hill. You’re looking down the hill.” As it does with many visitors to BB, the intricate tomb carvings on the See Teong Wah cluster of tombs drew admiration and appreciation. (photo Gan Su-lin)

En route to visit Municipal Commissioner Tan Kheam Hock, after whom Kheam Hock Road is named. Another note was made of graves with re-buried (photo Gan Su-lin)

Learning about the many and significant national and social development contributions of Tan Kheam Hock. Query was made of the fenced-in graves just above his, and, thus, was shared the tragic tale of the death of Dr Essel Tan.remains. (photo Gan Su-lin)

Find out more on Tan Kheam Hock here

“I am bigger in girth than the headstone of Tan Kheam Hock !” says Peter Pak (photo Gan Su-lin)

A visit was also made to the Tan Keong Saik quartet of tombs. In the foreground, Baba Peter Wee makes an offering of fragrant flowers onto the tomb mound of his grand-uncle, Tan Cheng Tit. (photo Gan Su-lin)

Peter gets cosy with the famous painted Sikh guard at Chew Geok Leong’s tomb. Lessons were learned about living tombs. (ohoto Gan Su-lin)

Find out  more on what is a live tomb here

Brownies are always learning! Today, our Peranakan visitors helped us notice that Pang Cheng Yean’s double grave is flanked by that of his mother and of his wife’s mother. (photo Gan Su-lin)

Find out  more on Pang Cheng Yean who was a pioneer banker here

Footnote: Customised tours on request can be considered for organisations at a suggested  honorarium which goes to defraying expenses for outreach activities. Please email a.t.bukitbrown@gmail.com. All public tours are free of charge.

by Gan Su-lin and Catherine Lim

The tomb staked 1888 or rather  its companion is used as an illustration in the LTA sign boards at Bukit Brown to explain to the public how to look out  for and identify whether an ancestor could be affected by the 8 lane highway that is going to be built through Bukit Brown.

The resident of Tomb 1888 was exhumed on Thursday 21 June 2012 by his descendant, a great grandson  who has requested privacy of identity but was kind enough to allow  Su-lin and me a chance to document and observe the exhumation from start to end.

On that day, we were told there were 4 exhumations and the following day,  11 were slated. We know this because exhumations has officialdom behind it. They have to be registered with NEA (National Environment Agency) which sends inspectors to spot check that it is conducted properly. There are papers to be signed and processed, but the  tomb keepers are familiar with the procedure and cut out as much of the paper work as possible for the descendent. A note here to say that the companion tomb next to 1888 is not occupied  which is not uncommon in Bukit Brown. The one beside it was most probably prepared for a spouse but who was not buried there for  a variety reasons which we will not speculate on. The descendant was  alerted to the existence of his great grandfather’s tomb only last year by Raymond Goh and proceeded to “refurbish” the tomb before  news was released that the grave was affected by highway.

The exhumation of staked tomb 1888 started at 8 am with prayers and the digging started about 20 minutes later together with the separation of the tombstone from the backing which is necessary to release the spirit, a way of notifying the “resident”, he is moving house. The latter required the wielding of the mallet against stone which was heart wrenching to observe even for an outsider. The exhumation proved  longer than the anticipated one hour because the grave was so well encrypted with granite slabs and brickwork and the  coffin so well kept that it required a chainsaw to cut  the opening. It was a “clean” exhumation, with remains of bones and nothing else.

Preparing to chant prays with incense, a bell and a dorje or vajra–  ” thunderbolt” which is used in Tibetan Buddhism. The brown portfolio is an ipad which had been loaded up with the chants (photo Catherine Lim)

The exhumation begins (photo Catherine Lim)

Separating the tombstone from the backing “releases the spirit” notifies the long time resident, he is moving home, the digging starts in tandem (photo Catherine Lim)

A valuable piece of inscription on the lives and times of the ancestor which is saved. (photo Catherine Lim)

Gan Su -lin (who documented) weighs in with Lim Ah Chye (tomb keeper) what to expect. (photo Catherine Lim)

Removing the granite slabs (photo Gan Su-lin)

Revealing the coffin, intact and impenetrable after more than 70 years and some excellent brick work that drew the admiration of the grave diggers (photo Gan S-lin)

So solid was the wood of the coffin, the chain saw had to applied twice ( photo Gan Su-lin)

The wood from the coffin that still needs to be identified (photo Gan Su-lin)

The first yield is a termites nest which Su Lin picked up thinking it might be the discovery of truffles in Singapore ( photo Gan Su-lin)

The second yield, teacups which survived the long internment, duly collected and delivered to documentation team office (photo Gan Su-lin)

The exhumed ancestor must not be exposed to the sunlight.The use of the umbrella is symbolic and will shade the ancestor right up to the placement at the final resting place The remains were rinsed prior to transfer to crematorium with Chinese wine.(photo Gan Su-lin)

The cremated remains were substantial (photo Gan Su-lin)

Ah Nan, who speaks fluent Hokkien presides over transfer of ashes to urn with the greatest of respect and meticulous attention ( photo Gan Su-lin)

One last look at the Crematorium before the ancestor was brought to  the family temple (photo Catherine Lim)

A bunga raya in remembrance for this day (photo Catherine Lim)

The exhumation began at 8 am. The gravediggers reached the granite slabs an hour later. The remains were exhumed just after 10am and transported  to the crematorium about 10.30. The remains were ready for collection at 11.30am. By 1 pm, the ancestor was” laid to rest” in the family temple.

Alex Lim’s Story  Part II

On the 2nd April 2012, Alex Lim and his family observed Qing Ming at Bukit Brown starting with his grandmother’s tomb,  Tan Tee Teo which was accessed  from Lornie Road. Part II continues as the family proceeded into Bukit Brown proper,  to Hill 4 where they paid their respects to Lim Kee Tong and his wife, the paternal great great grandparents to Alex and his brothers.

Lim Kee Tong was a Singapore pioneer businessman and philanthropist who contributed to free education, to the Lam Ann clan and was a trustee of an award winning temple.  As Alex goes through the rites of tomb sweeping,  he recounts to the documentation team, led by Dr Hui Yew Foong and bukitbrown.com,  what he has been told, heard and followed up on the  life and times of his illustrious ancestor – a narrative that continues to unfold.

Unloading at Hill 4, the end of the road (photo Catherine Lim)

Muddy !(photo Catherine Lim)

It's a 15 minute walk uphill (photo Catherine Lim)

Papa's fine (photo Catherine Lim)

We are here (photo Catherine)

It's been raining, so "ponding" in the forecourt of grave site (photo Catherine Lim)

Lim Kee Tong 1871 - 1940 (photo Peter Pak)

Kim Neo 1884 ~ 1961( Peter Pak )

(photo Catherine Lim)

Reading the Buddhist mantras ( photo Catherine Lim)

Youngest son and brother Yong Beng (photo Catherine Lim)

Alex does the paper marking tomb ritual he does so well (photo Catherine Lim)

That special way, Alex has with paper (photo Catherine Lim)

To Honour (photo Catherine Lim)

A closer look at the tomb of Lee Kee Tong and his wife and what it tells us

The Tombstone with the unusual pair of pegasus (photo Catherine Lim)

Detail (photo Catherine Lim)

Scribbles of couplets for translation (photo Catherine Lim)

Couplets Translated by Ang Yik Han

The couplets, on the headstone, are based on his name 箕當:

箕裘克紹傳家有仁風
Following in his father’s footsteps, his benevolence passes down through the generations;

當義勇为遺德留千古
Always ready to answer the righteous call, his virtue remains for eternity

The rain helped to "clean up" and reveal the couplets on 4 mini pillars(photo Catherine Lim)

The couplets on the pillars are 溪東, 東昇 is my GGGF’s 號 -Pseudonyms or aliases (from Alex Lim)

南國山川秀
安宅大地靈
溪土為故里
東昇是別名

“The southern land has fine hills and rivers

With the earth’s auras it is a good place to build a tomb

 Xi (Dong) is my hometown;

Dong Sheng is my other name”

About Lim Kee Tong :

Lim Kee Tong was on the Board of Directors which rebuilt the Hong San See at Mohamed Sultan Road in 1913 .His name is inscribed on the granite pillars at the temple’s front, a distinction given only to those who played a major role in its construction. In addition, he was one of the founders and chairman of a school based in the temple’s premises which provided basic education to poor children from the neighbourhood. Subsequently, he was also appointed as a trustee of the temple.

Lee Kee Tong's name inscribed on pillar (photo Alex Lim)

The temple has won a UNESCO award for its restoration (photo Alex Lim)

Hong San See Temple (photo Catherine Lim)

Apart from Singapore, Lim Kee Tong was also active in Klang and Kuala Lumpur where he was one of the co-founders of the Selangor Lim Clan Association as well as its first chairman. His name can also be found amongst the contributors to the Lim (Lam Ann) Clan Family Self-Management Association in Cantonment Road, the umbrella body for the Lim clan in Singapore. He was active in many other community groups and often gave generously to public and charitable causes such as famine and war relief funds.

Lam Ann @ Cantonment Rd (photo Alex Lim)

Lim Kee Tong’s business interests:

“The trading company name was called Lim Huat Hin 林發興 and it was mainly active in Kuala Lumpur, Selangor & S’pore.  Business routes included  Indonesia, Philippines & China.  My  the second generation which ran the family business included my great grandfather and one or two my great granduncles who  had their final resting places in Indonesia & Philippines. Exact locations unknown. My father said before that  GGGfather,  was also a landlord with  13 ~ 17 shop houses @ Hong Lim Pa Sat (Covent Garden).” Alex Lim

An extract from Nan_Yang_Ming_Ren_Ji_Zhuan_Vol.5_Pg.208 on Lim Kee Tong's business interests

Closing shots of Qing Ming at Bukit Brown for the Lim’s on 2 April 2012

Lim Sian Chin, with his wife Hai Lian (photo Catherine Lim)

One for the family album for brother Roger, who could not be there for Qing Ming (photo Catherine Lim)

Ever since they were “discovered” in early  2012 –  when volunteer guides started to trail Raymond Goh on his missions to help descendents find ancestors in Bukit Brown – they have been a talking point.

The “female” angel (photo Khoo Ee Hoon)

The “male” angel (photo Khoo Ee Hoon)

Dubbed “Naked Angels” by I believe one among the community, we  speculated on their genesis and gender.  And sometimes wondered about the ancestry behind the double tomb which is also guarded by a pair of sikh guards.

The Sikh Guard and the Naked Angel (photo Konamoto Dominic)

No one had visited in a very long time. To visit the tomb means being subject to being bitten not just by mozzies but also  the most vengeful ants to be found thus far,  for having their territory disturbed.

But just  two weeks ago, a family contacted Raymond Goh whom  he believed were the family who “owned” the angels.  The community was excited. An appointment was  made with Raymond for Saturday May 12 th. The pair of cousins who turned up after lunch time that day  were  perhaps a little taken back by Raymond’s  entourage of five.  If there were, they took it in their stride. At least two of the volunteers were familiar to them as they had attended a guided a tour just the previous week.

Armed with their family tree, Raymond helped  “reconnect” them  their great grandfather  and his 3 wives, and their grandfather  who died during the Japanese war. A grand total of 5 tombs!

This is your great grandfather Teo Chin Chay buried together with his first wife Gan Chwee Sian who was China born and had bound feet (photo Catherine Lim)

The inscriptions on the tomb stone are deeply carved and clear to read the names (photo Khoo Ee Hoon)

“Now let’s look for the other two wives. See the  plot number again” with tomb keeper Lim in blue (photo Catherine Lim)

“Yes, this is one of the other of his wives “(photo Catherine Lim)

“As for the last wife…”.(photo Catherine Lim)

“Yes, I see her, she is also here, the last wife….”(photo Catherine Lim)

Finding grandfather was tough. (photo Khoo Ee Hoon)

“So you think Grandfather is over there?”(photo Khoo Ee Hoon)

They emerge after some 40 minutes “disappointed” (photo Catherine Lim)

 Raymond had already bounded up the other side of the hill and penetrated deep into the bush (photo Khoo Ee Hoon)

“This is your grandfather” says a very satisfied Raymond (photo Khoo Ee Hoon)

“It took me quite some time to find it, but I have now familiarized myself with the pauper divisions, so much so that the tombkeepers themselves ask my assistance if they encounter difficult to find tombs in pauper divisions. This one is in Blk 3 Div 11, in the depths of the forest.” Raymond Goh 

So ends another fruitful afternoon for Khoo Ee Hoon, Peter Pak, Chew Keng Kiat with Raymond Goh. But we still don’t know much about how it came to be that a wealthy trader and businessman by the name of Teo Chin Chay came to have a pair of such unusual angels guarding his tomb. Could it be a Western take to Golden Boy and Jade Girl? The mystery continues.

Reported by Catherine Lim who was there but did not go bush bashing up the hill!

Alex’s  Story Part 1

Compiled by Catherine Lim

In 1940, when Lim Sian Chin was only 6 months old, his mother passed away from a mysterious illness.  Tan Tee Teo 陳甜桃; was only 23 years old.

On 2nd April, 2012, exactly 72 years to the date of Tan’s death (according to the lunar calendar)  Lim Sian Chin, with his  wife Hai Lian and 2 sons, Alex and Yong Beng paid what could be their last Qing Ming respects to her. (Roger, the middle  son of Lim’s was in Dubai) Staked grave 3716  is one of nearly 4000 graves which  lie in the way of an 8 lane highway that the government plans to build that  will slice Bukit Brown Cemetery into half.

This is the photo essay of the Lims’  Qing Ming 2012  which was also covered  by the documentation team led by Hui Yew Foong. It is composed from the view point of the eldest son, Alex.

“3716” has a name.   (photo Catherine Lim)

Tan is among these staked graves by Lornie Road (photo Catherine Lim)

The Lims stop by Lornie road for easiest access (photo Catherine Lim)

“The documentation dudes, Terence Heng  and Hui Yew Foong” (photo Catherine Lim)

“Pa, let me take your hand” (photo Catherine Lim)

“What do you have there, Alex?” asked Yew Foong” (photo Catherine Lim)

(photo by Terence Heng, visual sociologist on documentation team)

“Everyone seems to know what to do” (photo Catherine Lim)

Chinese pastries for her. Offerings are simple fare these days  (photo Catherine Lim)

Laying out the offerings and lighting up (photo Catherine Lim)

Youngest brother (photo Catherine Lim)

Father lights up for the mother he never knew (photo Catherine Lim)

” I remember back then when I was this nigh high, playing here among the lallang and the mozzies are still here ….” (photo Catherine Lim)

Father reads from Buddhist book of Mantras.(photo Catherine Lim)

The Lim family were Taoist practitioners. In recent years, they have become Buddhists, as father believes after a period of time, the departed are already well and truly  reincarnated. So offerings are “symbolic”

Burning (photo Catherine Lim)

A unique way of wedging coloured paper through grass stalks so it won’t fly away (photo Catherine Lim)

This tradition comes from a Han emperor who after a long stint away from at war , returned home to pay respects to his parents. Their graves had become overgrown. So he decided to throw paper in 5 cardinal directions and where they landed and stayed, that would be where their graves were. A stone was used to wedge the paper to their tomb stones (that is why you still see stones on top of tombstones, it shows descendents have paid a visit.) Alex has his own unique way of “marking” the spot.

“Time to go, Pa” (photo Catherine Lim)

One last bow, one last request “How shall we honour you, going forward?”  (photo Catherine Lim)

The grave of Tan Tee Neo rests under a tree visible from the road (photo by Terence Heng)

Post Script to Tan Tee Neo : The widower of Tan Tee Neo was to later marry her much younger sister sometime during or after World War 2. It was a fruitful union which  resulted in half siblings for Lim and that branch of the family  too continue to honour their late aunt at Qing Ming.

Alex’s story continues in Part II coming up soon where he pays his respect to his great great grandparents who are also buried in Bukit Brown. They are  Lim Kee Tong 林箕當, Neo Kim 梁金. Find out more about the part Lim Kee Tong played in the setting up of a  free school and a temple.

Award winning Hong San See Temple at Mohamed Sultan Road (photo by Alex Lim)

The Beautiful Hill 2 of Bukit Brown Cemetery  is resplendent  history:  tomb stones carved in China with facial relief so expressive they will speak to you through  your guide Yik Han, whilst your other guide, Peter Pak will reveal hidden in  green nooks,   tombs guarded by Angels and Sikh Guards. And if you are lucky macaques may swing above in the canopy of trees  and birdsong fill the air, as  Hill 2 overlooks  a beautiful valley. Sadly the proposed highway will sliced through here. So enjoy Hill 2 while you can.

Tombs of note on Hill 2 can  be found here

This tour’s highlight is however  the newly cleared and cleaned up tomb of Lee Kim Soo , an early manufacturer of match sticks.

Lee Kim Soo's tomb reveals swirls and geometric lines after clear up (photo Rosalind Tan)

Debut of Lee Kim Soo on atBB tours (Photo: Khoo Ee Hoon)

Volunteer guides, Peter and Yik Han, were joined by other Brownies on this May 12 guided tour.

The tour: Video here. (Credit: Albert Ong)

Peter Pak guiding (Photo: Ang Yik Han)

Yik Han, Peter, Keng Kiat and the tour participants (photo: Suki Singh)

And the horses and riders are back, after a break during Qing Ming (Photo: Suki SIngh)

***

Also on the same day, after guiding, the volunteers aka Brownies helped some descendants re-unite with long-lost relatives:

A tomb find (Photo: Suki Singh)

Ms Teresa has found her grandfather, whose tomb Ah Lim helped to rebuild. On the same day, she found her grandmother too:

A tomb find (Photo: Suki Singh)

Miss Teresa is re-united with her grand mother. This find was done with the help of Suki, Peter Pak, Chew Keng Kiat. Miss Teresa thanks the Brownies sincerely from the bottom of her heart.

Tan Ka Po finds his ancestors, with guide Peter Park (Photo: Khoo Ee Hoon)

In the meantime, the descendants at what is commonly called the “naked angels’ tomb” finally turned up to solve the mystery of who this man was. We discover his two other wives are buried in front of his tomb. Now to find the other relatives.

Raymond engaged to find a tomb (Photo: Khoo Ee Hoon)

Raymond hikes up a hill to find a tomb (Photo: Khoo Ee Hoon)

Raymond disappears into the bush to find a tomb (Photo: Khoo Ee Hoon)

***

The Bukit Brown area is about 233 acres  in extent, bordered by Lornie Road, Lower Thomson Road and the Pan-Island Expressway. It lies just to the south of the Central Catchment Forest, being separated from it by Lornie Road and includes one of Singapore’s oldest Chinese cemetery. With >100,000 graves, Bukit Brown is also one of the largest Chinese cemeteries outside of China.

The volunteers, also known as Brownies, do research, plan the logistics and organize tours to help raise awareness of what is to be lost. Today’s Brownies were: Peter, Catherine, Raymond, Victor with his wife Doris, Keng Kiat and our honorable Sikh guard, Suki. Not in the photo: Yik Han (pictured below) and the photographer Ee Hoon.

Brownies (Photo: Khoo Ee Hoon)

Brownies Keng Kiat and Yik Han (Photo: Khoo Ee Hoon)

((Compiled by Claire Leow, with information provided by Suki Singh and Khoo Ee Hoon.)

The Grey Headed Fish Eagle

Dateline 2 May 2012 at Bukit Brown.

This magnificent creature was “captured” this morning by Georgina Chin the accidental photographer. She writes of the moment:

” He was brave and stood on a perch like forever and didn’t move. I sat and just watched him. He was soaked . I was soaked. I call him white socks.”

About Georgina:

She is the photographer and writer of the book “Birds in my Backyard.” Bukit Brown is literally her backyard as she lives off Lornie Road. Georgina started birdwatching in 2009.

Georgina Chin - The Accidental Photographer (photo Catherine Lim)