On Saturday 5th October’13, newly minted Brownie Simone Lee, conducted her first guided walk with the theme “The Ladies of the Straits Settlements.” It was a tribute to the endurance, resilience and the strength of character of our women pioneers, who played a significant role in championing greater freedom and education for females in Singapore, with support from the forward thinking men of their times.
This is her report.
Stories of the Ladies of Straits Settlement by Simone Lee
Despite the rain, some 40 participants bravely trickled in for the tour. A majority of them were first-timers at Bukit Brown and it was good to see a good mix of men and ladies in the crowd for the all-ladies themed tour. And much to my comfort, a group of Brownies – who together with the participants formed a sea of umbrellas – were there to support me in my first guided walk.
The stories harked back to the days, when education was frowned upon for the ladies and their social freedom, restricted. But the ladies of the Straits Settlements did not lack character, and demonstrated both verve and spirit.
The first story told was one of bravery. During the Japanese war, Soh Koon Eng rushed home from a friend’s house when she heard the air-raid sirens. While shielding her mother and her infant niece under an altar table, she was exposed to the splinters of a bomb that hit her house. She was taken to Kandang Kerbau hospital where she passed away the same day. Such is the cruelty of war, that Miss Soh’s story reminds us to not to take for granted, the peace we enjoy today.
Madam Oon Tuan Cheng was left to look after 6 young children when she was widowed. She was to lose her only 2 sons to Sook Ching, followed by the death of her eldest daughter. Her story is one of grief and endurance in the face of tragedy
At the turn of the 19th century, higher education for Chinese girls was introduced in Singapore by social reformers such as Chia Hood Theam and Lim Boon Keng, who together with other forward thinking men of the times started the Singapore Chinese Girls School.
Among the pioneers who studied in SCGS, was Lee Choo Neo who went on to medical school to become Singapore’s first woman doctor. She also started the the Chinese Ladies’ Association of Malaya which supported education for girls and a shelter for vulnerable women.

Bianca sharing the extraordinary achievements of Lee Choo Neo, Singapore’s first woman doctor (photo Theresa Teng)
Another SCGS alumni Madam Onn Chim Neo, also demonstrated that girls could excel in their studies and she encouraged efforts in improving the lives of Chinese ladies.
It is because of these pioneers that women today enjoy equality and freedom in many aspects of life, including social and physical activities. We no longer need to live our lives confined within the walls of our home.
By the end of walk, the skies had cleared, the sun came out, the air was filled with bird song and there were smiles and appreciation all round from the participants.
I had completed my first guided walk and felt that I learned more through guiding than in participating in tours.
A special thanks to all the Brownies who have mentored and supported me in various ways, from conceptualizing, planning and researching till the day of the actual tour.
This weekend of 12/13 October 2 tours;
Sat 12 October 9am – 11.30am
Special Tan Kheam Hock theme tour.
Without Tan Kheam Hock there may not have been a Bukit Brown. Join Keng Kiat as he shares the life and times of one of the commissioners who played an instrumental part in the setting up of the cemetery. He will unravel the myriad relationships of Kheam Hock’s large extended family from sons and daughters to his grandchildren and even his in-laws
Meeting Point: the T-junction where Kheam Hock Road meets Sime Road, meets Lorong Halwa.
Sunday 13 October 9am – 11.30 am Chinese Tour, meet under the old rain tree on the left as you enter Bukit Brown
一个小岛国的城市绿洲,武吉布朗导,历史与丛林交汇的世
武吉布朗导览义工 Andrew Lim, Fabien Tee 和 Yik Han 将为大家介绍安葬于武吉布朗墓园的新加坡开埠先驱及达官
我们也将探讨他们当时所处的历史背景。
在亲身瞻仰这些先贤的坟墓之余,大家也有机会认识墓碑和
陆路交通管理局受权的工程公司已经准备动工挖掘与迁坟,
集合地点:
环状绕道前的雨豆树下。可惜的是,这棵高大凛然的雨豆树
==========================
报名:
我们在周末为公众提供的导览服务是免费的
理想人数为一团三十人(平均一名导览员十五人)
请在我们的Facebook活动页面按‘参加’/
==========================
Come visit Bukit Brown Heritage Park and be introduced to some notable pioneers who had made great contributions to Singapore in the first half of the 20th century, and the historical context of their lives and times.
Meeting Place: Big Rain Tree next to the Bukit Brown LTA Office
For information on how to get there and handy tips please visit
http://bukitbrown.com/
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Registration:
Our weekend public tours are FREE …
Optimally the group size is 30 participants (15 individuals/guide).
Please click ‘Join’ on the FB event page to let us know you are coming, how many pax are turning up, or just meet us at the starting point at 9am. We meet there rain or shine.
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The tour:
The Bukit Brown area is about 233 hectares in extent, bordered by Lornie Road, Thomson Road and the Pan-Island Expressway. It lies just to the south of the Central Catchment Forest, being separated from it by Lornie Road and includes Singapore’s only Chinese Municipal Cemetery. With more than 100,000 graves, Bukit Brown is also one of the largest Chinese cemeteries outside of China.
Don’t forget to bask in the peaceful surrounds, and also chat with your guides and make friends with other participants. We are amateurs and volunteers, but we are passionate and serious about what we do at Bukit Brown, and we encourage sharing of knowledge.
Here is a map of the grounds:
http://bukitbrown.com/
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Please take note:
1. We will be walking mainly on paved roads. But there are hill treks so dress appropriately, especially your footwear.
2. Wear light breathable clothing. Long pants and long sleeves if you are prone to insect bites or sunburn. Bring sunblock and natural insect repellent.
3. Wear comfortable non-slip shoes as safety is important. Walking sticks are recommended.
4. Do read up on Bukit Brown before going so you have a better understanding of the place (e.g. BukitBrown.com)
5. Do bring water, light snacks, poncho/umbrella, sunhat and waterproof your electronics.
6. Please go to the toilet before coming. There are NO facilities anywhere there or nearby.
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How to get there by MRT / Bus:
Bus services available: 52, 74, 93, 157, 165, 852, 855.
From North: Go to Marymount MRT and walk to bus-stop #53019 along Upper Thomson Road. Take Buses 52, 74, 165, 852, 855
Alight 6 stops later at bus-stop, #41149, opposite Singapore Island Country Club (SICC), Adam Road. Walk towards Sime Road in the direction of Kheam Hock Road until you see Lorong Halwa.
From South: Go to Botanic Gardens MRT and walk to bus-stop #41121 at Adam Road, in front of Singapore Bible College. Take Buses 74, 93, 157, 165, 852, 855. Alight 2 stops later at bus-stop, #41141, just before Singapore Island Country Club (SICC), Adam Road. Cross the bridge, walk towards Sime Road, follow the road until you see Lorong Halwa.
By car:
Turn in from Lornie Road, to Sime Road. Then, turn left into Lorong Halwa.
Parking space available at the largish paved area near the cemetery gates.
At Bukit Brown, one often finds couplets on the “pillars” of the tombs. They embed auspicious meanings and also tributes to the departed.
The tomb of Chen Yen Soon has a pair which speaks of the rewards which await those who live a good life.
为善百世興 Hundred years of prosperity for kind acts.
積德千年好 A good thousand years for those who accumulate good deeds.

積德千年好 A good thousand years for those who accumulate good deeds. (photo Khoo Ee Hoon)
An inscription found in a temple in Silat Road on a photo of the Earth Deity or Tua Pek Kong, evokes the same sentiments.. Brownie Fabian Tee summarises:
The couplet reads fortune with virtue inspires respect from a thousand families (from many) the uprightious shall inherit the earth as deities for innumerable (ten thousand) generations. When read together, it’s an allegory to 福德正神。
More examples of couplets here
NEWS FLASH: THE CHEE FAMILY HAS STEPPED FORWARD TO CLAIM MRS CHEE KIM GUAN FOLLOWING TODAY’S NEWS PAPER REPORT IN ZAOBAO , 1 OCTOBER 2013
What began as a news flash on the Facebook Group Heritage Singapore Bukit Brown Cemetery by Raymond Goh has materialised into a newspaper article calling on descendants of Mrs Chee Kim Guan, mother of Chee Yam Chuan, to lay claim to the tomb, stake number 1818.
(This is a relocated tomb, located at Hill 2, Block 3 and is one among a cluster of 1830s tombs)
On August 25th, 2013 Raymond posted:
” Newsflash – I believe I have found the mother of Chee Yam Chuan among an old cluster of tombs staked to be removed due to an impending road project. One of Chee Yam Chuan’s grandson is Chee Swee Cheng. Today I dug the soil at the bottommost of the tombstone to reveal the only grandson on the tombstone. It was Keat Bong. Next I check out David Chng record of Chee Yam Chuan tomb inscription found in Malacca. His eldest son was also Keat Bong. Based on the son and grandson inscribed in this tombstone, I can almost confirmed that this is the tombstone of the mother of Chee Yam Chuan, Mrs Chee Kim Guan nee Khoo. This tomb is dated to 1836, and the Chees’ are one of the pioneering family to come to Singapore during its modern founding in 1819″
For more on Raymond’s research on the Chee Family, please click here
Today, 1 October 2013, Zaobao published an article on the identity of who is buried in the staked tomb, which is in the way of the 8 lane highway and still unclaimed. The following is a summary of the article by PatSg one of the members of the facebook group
* 百年古墓即将起坟 峇峇富商生母之墓无人认领?
武吉布朗3746个受新道路工程影响的坟墓,10月起将逐一起坟。在2525个至今还没有后人认领的坟墓中,有一个年代可追溯到“道光十六年岁次丙申”(1837年)的清代迁葬墓,相信是马六甲和新加坡峇峇富商徐炎泉生母之墓。
* Century-old Tomb of Mother to Wealthy Baba Merchant: On verge of exhumation and yet unclaimed (Lianhe Zaobao – 01 Oct 2013)
Bukit Brown’s 3,746 tombs affected by the new highway project will be exhumed starting from this October. Amongst the 2,525 unclaimed tombs is one that was re-interred in 1837 during the Qing emperor Daoguang’s 16th year of reign (also the year of the Fire Monkey). This tomb is believed to belong to the birth mother of the wealthy Malacca and Singapore Baba merchant Xú Yán Quán [徐炎泉: Chee Yam/Yean Chuan].
原籍漳州府龙溪县的徐炎泉(1819-1862)和父亲徐钦元都是海峡殖民地成功商人,曾经富甲一方,生意遍布马六甲和新加坡。徐炎泉21岁时就已经当上马六甲福建帮领袖,不过他在1862年遭枪杀,时年43岁。
Hailing from Longxi county of Zhangzhou prefecture, both Xú Yán Quán [Chee Yam/Yean Chuan] (1819-1862) and father Xú Qīn Yuán [徐钦元: Chee Kim Guan] were successful and extremely wealthy merchants of the British Straits Settlements with businesses all over Malacca and Singapore. Xú Yán Quán was already the leader of the Malaccan Hokkien community at age 21, but was gunned down in 1862 at age 43.
原来徐炎泉的这位生母,百多年来一直静静的躺在武吉布朗坟场,而且很快便要被挖走!除了徐炎泉生母,他儿子徐桂梦和媳妇周吉娘的墓也在武吉布朗。
吴安全相信徐炎泉依然有后人在新加坡和马六甲,希望他们看到报道后,能尽快与他联络,认领被遗忘多时的坟墓。
It turns out that Xú Yán Quán’s [Chee Yam/Yean Chuan’s] birth mother has been resting peacefully at Bukit Brown Cemetery for the past 100-plus years, and would very soon be exhumed ! In addition to his birth mother, the tombs of his son Xú Guì Mèng [徐桂梦: Chee Quee Bong] and daughter-in-law Zhōu Jí Niáng [周吉娘: Chew Kiat Neo] are also located at Bukit Brown.
Raymond Goh believes Xú Yán Quán [Chee Yam/Yean Chuan] have descendents still living in Singapore and Malacca, and hopes that after reading this report, they would contact him as soon as possible to claim the long-forgotten tomb.
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Additional Genealogical Summary by PatSg
** Chee Yam/Yean Chuan (徐钦元 Xú Qīn Yuán: 24 May 1818/19/20 – 28 Jul 1862)
* Father: Chee Kim Guan (died 13 Jan 1839)
* Mother: Siok Hui (淑惠 Shū Huì: posthumous name, re-interred tomb dated to 1836)
* Wife: Tan Liat/Lian Kian
* 2 Daughters
* 10 Sons: Chee Gin Siew (alias Cheah Jin Siew), Chee Him Bong, Chee Pee Bong, Chee Teck Bong, Chee Hoon Bong, Chee Lim Bong, Chee Hee Bong, Chee Quee Bong, Chee Beck/Peck Bong, Chee Siang Bong
Editors Note: The tomb of Mrs Chee Kim Guan is part of a cluster of over 50 tombs which have been reburied in Bukit Brown. The tombstones date back to 1830s, which indicate that these would be pioneers who predate the arrival of Sir Stamford Raffles in 1819. Information on this cluster of tombs was not recorded in the Bukit Brown Burial Registry. As such the only way to identify who are buried in this cluster is first, to decipher the names and inscriptions on each individual tomb and conduct further research. This was how Raymond identified the tomb of Mrs Chee Kim Guan
Bukit Brown, Development and Possibilities for Singapore
By Ian Chong
Recent events and public discussions about public transport, the environment, and heritage should give pause to the proposed construction of the dual four-lane carriageway across Bukit Brown. Singaporeans have one last opportunity to consider the consequences of irrevocably altering the face of an important part of our nation’s natural and cultural landscape before the planned exhumations begin in October 2013. Surveys for Our Singapore Conversation indicate that 62 percent of Singaporeans prefer preserving green spaces over constructing roads and other infrastructure, while 53 percent prefer heritage preservation over infrastructure building. (OSC Survey, p. 6) Staying road construction over Bukit Brown demonstrates responsiveness to public needs.
Simply building roads, such as one over Bukit Brown, does not address the fundamental reason underlying congestion in Singapore. As Kishore Mahbubani, dean of the Lee Kuan Yew School of Public Policy, pointed out, the fundamental challenge facing road space in Singapore is sub-optimal public transport, which heightens demand for car use. (ST, Sep 14) Recent steps by the LTA to raise ERP rates and introduce new considerations for the COE underscore the fact that controlling vehicle population should be key to addressing the traffic snarling our roads. The heavy traffic on Lornie Road during rush hours comes from vehicles filtering on and off a congested PIE, an issue a road through Bukit Brown is unlikely to solve. In fact, Singapore can probably never build enough roads if current approaches to car use and public transport are not thoroughly re-thought.
Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong’s last National Day Rally should provide more impetus for maintaining Bukit Brown in its current form. According to Mr. Lee, new plans to develop Singapore’s southern and eastern coasts along with Paya Lebar mean that, “we do not have to worry about running out of space or possibilities for Singapore. We are not at the limit, the sky is the limit! We are creating possibilities for the future.” This means that there is space for Bukit Brown in its current form in our future and those of our children.
As physical changes in Singapore become ever more prevalent, the remaining tangible markers of our unique heritage and history only grow in importance to society. This is a reality that digitisation can never fully replace or replicate.
In fact, the Prime Minister’s National Day Rally statement about being able to maintain possibilities for Singapore stands in stark contrast to National Development Minister Khaw Boon Wan’s claim that it is necessary to sacrifice Bukit Brown and nature for construction. (Zaobao, Sept. 28) Today’s Singapore is no longer in the 1960s where infrastructure development was imperative.
The haste to construct the dual four-lane carriageway – and other follow-on developments – over Bukit Brown may even be counter-productive. Flooding earlier this month serves as a reminder of the need for development projects to proceed with caution. As the NEA subsequently stated, “Rapid development and urbanisation…are likely to be significant factors which may explain this trend [of heavy precipitation leading to flooding].” (Today, Sept 13) The Expert Panel on Drainage Design and Flood Prevention Measures likewise noted, “increased urbanisation in the Stamford Canal Catchment might have been a contributing factor to the 2010 and 2011 floods…” (p. 13)
Moreover, the panel observed that “other than generating higher and faster surface run-off, increased urbanization may also bring about other impacts such as increased heat production, changes in rainfall patterns and other climate change impacts…” (p. 13) Panel recommendations to mitigate the effects of urbanisation is recognition of the relationship between rapid, large-scale development and flooding. (p.1, 9, 15, 52, 55) Notably, the Environmental Impact Assessment for the road across Bukit Brown remains unavailable for public access.
Building the road over Bukit Brown may prove to be a temporary patch rather a real solution to the challenges of congestion, and can potentially create more difficulties down the line. The LTA and URA should hold off construction until there are more comprehensive ad appropriate ways to address the environmental, heritage, traffic, and development issues that intersect at Bukit Brown.
At a minimum, there ought to be a rigorous, publicly available study first. This is a first step toward finding a more comprehensive and sustainable approach to the issues above. Halting construction clearly comes with costs, but these may be much lower that those from building the road. Singapore is worth the extra effort.
Ian Chong works at a tertiary institution. His comments are in his personal capacity. An edited version of this commentary first appeared online in Today 30 September 2013
by Choo Ai Loon
The Mian-Yu-Ting Cemetery (绵裕亭) across the causeway in Johor, Malaysia, has an area of about 60 acres. The cemetery which has been closed for burial includes a casket company, a crematorium and two columbaria, among other facilities.
I attended a tour of the cemetery led by Mr Bak Jia How and Mr Pek Wee-Chuen who are alumni of Foon Yew High School in Johor. The tour was to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the school, and dedicated to two of the four founders who were laid to rest in Mian-Yu-Ting.
We also visited the graves of other contributors to Foon Yew and stories about them were shared. At the same time, I learned other interesting facts about the graves, in particular, the meaning behind the unique inscriptions .
The land for the cemetery was a gift by Sultan Abu Bakar in 1885. In the 1920s, due to poor management, burials had mistakenly crossed over onto an adjacent piece of land. That land was owned by a tycoon, Al-Habib Hasan bin Ahmad al-Attas of Arab origin, but born in Malaya. He however kindly agreed to donate a part of the land to the cemetery. As a token of gratitude, a Rosetta stone was erected within the compound to remember his generosity.
The Chinese character “氵月” on the tombstone circled below means ‘Qing (Dynasty) without a leader’ (清无主). This was a secret word created to symbolise the movement to overthrow the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) and to revive the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644).
However, engraving the character on a tombstone in Nanyang (Southern Seas or south of China) in the last 200 years did not necessarily mean one was active in the movement. It can be interpreted to symbolise the unity among members from a certain cohort or gang, formed by early Chinese migrants to Nanyang.; in this instance, the Teochew community.
Notably, most of the tombs in Mian-Yu-Ting that carry “氵月” character are on Teochew tombs and not found on the Cantonese tombstones there . Have you seen the same character at any tomb in Bukit Brown?
There is tomb adorned with Majolica tiles which was built when the Ngee Heng Kongsi was ordered to dissolve in 1919. The Ngee Heng Kongsi was a powerful Teochew gang in Johor and an offshoot of the Tian-Di-Hui (天地会) secret society in China. The society aimed to topple the Qing Dynasty so as to reinstate the Ming Dynasty.
That said, the overseas offshoot of Ngee Heng Kongsi was largely committed to taking care of the welfare of early Chinese immigrants. When it wound up, a fraction of its funds was spent on building this tomb, with the Chinese words of Ming-Mu (明墓), meaning Ming tomb, engraved on the headstone.
The remaining fund, a substantial sum at that time, was donated to Foon Yew School. And in return, the school would have to perform rituals at the tomb twice a year, on the 3rd day of the third Lunar month (spring) and the 25th day of the seventh Lunar month (autumn). For almost a century now, the school continues to fulfil its promise.
No one was buried under the tomb. Instead, a catacomb was said to have been built to place ancestral tablets of important members of the gang, and to safe keep sacred objects. Notably, Ngee Heng Kongsi had established one of the earliest Chinese settlements in Johor. We certainly won’t be where we are today without our pioneers.
Here are some highlights from other graves
At one grave, there is a larger-than-usual placement of the Guardian Deity of Earth which is comparable to the one at Ong Sam Leong’s in Bukit Brown.
In Singapore and Malaysia, the Guardian Deity of Earth may be addressed in Mandarin as Tu-Di-Zhi-Shen (土地之神), just like the one in the photo, or Hou-Tu (后土) or Fu-Shen (福神). Have you seen another name being used in Bukit Brown?
A mythical creature Ao-Yu (鳌鱼) has a dragon’s head and a fish’s body, it is believed to have transformed from a carp.
I hope these discoveries may lead you to exclaim “oh I see!”; or trigger a memory: “oh I have seen this somewhere before!”.
I would like to thank Pek Wee-Chuen and Bak Jia How, for an enjoyable tour and sharing their knowledge with me.
Look for part 2 of my journal on Mian-Yu-Ting. Highlights include, a Johorean connected to a high school in Singapore and, the story of a family business which parallels that of Teochew leader, Seah Eu Chin.
Choo Ai Loon, works as a translator and is passionate about art and heritage, She supports Hair for Hope for children with cancer.
She blogs at http://chooailoon.wordpress.com/2013/05/05/hair-for-hope-2013/
Two guided walks this weekend one in English, the other Mandarin
Saturday 14 Sept – 9am – 11.30am
Meeting Point: Bukit Brown Under the Rain tree at the roundabout
Join Jonathan on a tour of Hill 2 & 5 and visit tombs of some of Singapore’s pioneers, learn about tomb designs and carvings, and enjoy the nice walk through Bukit Brown’s greenery.
Bukit Brown. More than a cemetery. More than a Chinese cemetery.
Come discover our heritage, history and habitat.
LTA has released news on exhumation and tender for road building. Take this opportunity to experience Bukit Brown Chinese Cemetery as it is now.
How to get there and handy tips here: http://bukitbrown.com/
By agreeing to take this walking tour of Bukit brown cemetery I understand and accept that I must be physically fit and able to do so. To the extent permissible by law, I agree to assume any and all risk of injury or bodily harm to myself and persons in my care (including child or ward)
Registration: Our weekend public tours are FREE …
Optimally the group size is 30 participants (15 individuals/guide).
Please click ‘Join’ on the FB event page to let us know you are coming, how many pax are turning up. Or just meet us at the starting point at 9am.
Brownie Code: We guide rain or shine.
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The tour:
Bukit Brown Heritage Park is about 173 acres in extent, bordered by Lornie Road, Thomson Road and the Pan-Island Expressway. It lies just to the south of the Central Catchment Forest, being separated from it by Lornie Road and includes Singapore’s only Chinese Municipal Cemetery. With more than 100,000 graves, Bukit Brown is also one of the largest Chinese cemeteries outside of China.
Here is a map of the grounds:
http://bukitbrown.com/
Sunday 15 September 9 am – 11.30am
一个小岛国的城市绿洲,武吉布朗导,历史与丛林交汇的世
武吉布朗导览义工 Fabien Tee 和 Yik Han 将为大家介绍安葬于武吉布朗墓园的新加坡开埠先驱及达官
我们也将探讨他们当时所处的历史背景。
在亲身瞻仰这些先贤的坟墓之余,大家也有机会认识墓碑和
陆路交通管理局受权的工程公司已经准备动工开始挖掘与迁
集合地点:
环状绕道前的雨豆树下。可惜的是,这棵高大凛然的雨豆树
==========================
报名:
我们在周末为公众提供的导览服务是免费的
理想人数为一团三十人(平均一名导览员十五人)
请在我们的Facebook活动页面按‘参加’/
==========================
游览活动:
武吉布郎占地约233公顷,其周边的道路有罗尼路、汤申
别忘了享受一下武吉布郎那恬静和谐的气氛,也别羞于同导
欲查阅武吉布郎的地图,请浏览:
http://bukitbrown.com/
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游览须知:
1. 我们多数时候是在柏油路上步行,但也会有小段的山路,因
2. 请穿着轻便和通风透气的衣服。如果你特别惹蚊虫叮咬或格
3. 安全第一,所以请穿上舒适的防滑鞋。你也可以考虑携带手
4. 我们建议你在游览武吉布郎前,先了解一下关于它的资讯及
5. 请携带饮用水、小点心、雨衣/
6. 请在前往武吉布郎前先上厕所,因为那里及附近一带都没有
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公共交通服务:
巴士服务:52号、74号、93号、157号、165号
从新加坡北部前往:乘搭地铁到玛丽蒙站(Marymou
在第6个车站(不包括上车的车站),编号41149的车
从新加坡南部前往:乘搭地铁到植物园站(Botanic
在第2个车站(不包括上车的车站),编号41141的车
自己开车:从罗尼路(Lornie Road)转入森路(Sime Road),然后转左进入罗弄哈哇(Lorong Halwa)。武吉布郎正门铁闸附近的空地可停车。
by A.J Leow
My trips to Bukit Brown Cemetry tend to stir up some deep-seated emotions within me. My first, which followed a trip to Gardens by the Bay, had evoked images of contrast. On one hand, there is this rich but neglected repository of our cultural and natural heritage amid the lush, unkempt undergrowth and the other, an artificial construct or what I would often refer to as a huge manicured bonsai.
At the Gardens, you put on a headset; pressed some buttons to listen to a disembodied voice on a guided tour. It’s like calling your bank to cancel the annual credit card charge. Quite impersonal. At Bukit Brown, there are no ticket queues, entry fees or closing hours. You get to pepper some guy – in a sweat-soaked T-shirt with a towel around the neck – with questions about our forgotten past.

Uphill is a breeze with Brownie Peter Pak telling stories of our forgotten pioneers (photo Catherine Lim)
The bonus is that you may be invited to join the Brownies at a zhi char place after the tour for a get-together makan. How much more Singaporean can you get!
My latest trip came about on National Day 2013 which was followed by a family viewing of the annual parade and the fly-past. While the vignettes of our forefathers by the guides at Bukit Brown – especially that of how they arrived by sea and spied the shimmering lights of the harbour of 星汌 (Isle of Stars) which must have lifted their hopes of a better tomorrow – touched many a chord; the vain exhortations by the emcees at the waterfront parade to portray the Merlion as a national symbol fell really flat, especially when the mythical creature wasn’t sure if it was a lion or a transgendered mermaid. To me, it was an apt metaphor of our confused national identity.
Not so the narrative of Bukit Brown.
At the official parade, there was an actress masquerading as a samsui woman. As a young boy heading off to school, I have seen scores of these weathered-beaten, hardy red-hat women from southern China squatting and lining the roadside, some of them holding rolled-up cigarettes with their calloused hands in the early hours of dawn at Redhill Road. I can assure you, none of them look like the ruddy faced actress on the national stage!
The contrast could not be more stark. Listening to the story-tellers at Bukit Brown to me would be akin to reading a rich body of literary work by local author Catherine Lim, or the playwright Kuo Pao Kun. Bukit Brown is our history; while some of the NDP performances came across like a fleeting piece of newspaper ad or TV commercial. Not quite authentic.
The next day, I picked up a copy of The New Paper to read its coverage of the Brownies’ tribute to our country’s early pioneers. On the following page was a piece on the make-up of the hardcore Singaporean. There were the usual comments about the use of Singlish, the tendency to gripe; pressing lift buttons repeatedly and oh dear, even ‘common resentment towards foreigners.’ The MP for Marine Parade GRC, Tin Pei Ling, mentioned the love for chicken rice, our hardworking nature and the willingness to stay and defend the country during a crisis. Except for the first item, I wouldn’t call that a uniquely Singapore trait.
There was little mention about our heritage and our forefathers who helped build the place we now call home. On an existentialist level, they seem to be no longer part of the wellspring of our national consciousness – the collective National Soul. Are we in danger of becoming the equivalent in Plato’s Cave, bereft of our true identity, which seems to have been reduced to the image of a buffet of laksa, char kuay teow and other hawker’s fare, and a limited lexicon of words such as ‘kiasu’, ‘chope’ and ‘shiok’? Surely, being Singaporean is more that that!
It’s unfortunate that for most of us (that includes me); the history of Singapore has been largely bracketed by or reduced to the two Rs – Raffles and the founding of our Republic. The first is a man in white; or rather a statue in marble white next to the Singapore River, whom most of us don’t really know much about except that his name has been hijacked for a hotel, school, business hub, shopping mall among others, including Singapore Airline’s business class. The second R would be the story of the Men in White, which I bet many of the younger generation would be clueless of who they are or were, with perhaps the exception of our elderly statesman, Lee Kuan Yew.
There’s a yawning chasm in between the two Rs. We need to fill them with what would be the equivalents of our own versions of Benjamin Franklin, Rockeller, Carnegie, and Edison in the largely blank pages of our own history. Names like Tan Ean Kiam (banker and philanthropist), Lim Kim Seng (Justice of the Peace and Teochew leader) and Tan Kim Ching (Kapitan Cina and diplomatic consul to Siam, China and Russia) and bring them back into our national consciousness and collective memory. Make it kind of a Lazarus Project with a uniquely Singapore theme.
That’s why I feel strongly that Bukit Brown Cemetery is a heritage landmark worth saving for the sake of all Singaporeans – now and the future. It’s where the national soul resides. It’s a living museum with names that most Singaporeans can readily identify with, such as the bus routes we take to work (Jalan Boon Lay); MRT stations (Boon Keng); schools we go to (Gan Eng Seng) and makan places (Joo Chiat Place), to name just but a few. There are more than 40 names of streets and places which can be traced back to Bukit Brown.
What’s more, I can imagine their descendants mingling among us – cheek-to-jowl in the MRT and buses; in the queues at NTUC supermarkets; for Toto and 4-D tickets and the char kuay teow stall at Hong Lim complex.
Our forefathers came from afar across the seas – many as coolies including my own grandfather – and caught a glimpse of 星汌 and like the biblical story of Abraham, their descendants have multiplied like the ‘stars’ they imagine to be the bright lights of the future. They chose to come, live, die and be buried here. We owe our presence to them. We need to remember and honour them. The story of Singapore is built on the backs of immigrants, and we should keep on telling their stories unceasingly. More will come because of they have built, what we will build on the foundations they laid. Those newcomers too will catch a glimpse of the shimmering lights of 星汌 (Isle of Stars) when their planes fly over Changi International Airport. Majullah Singapore!
Bio: A.J. Leow is the grandson of a coolie who has brought his children to Bukit Brown several times to understand their roots. His family celebrated National Day at Bukit Brown this year.
Related:
History of the Dead, Heritage of the Living
“It started off as a dream. A dream to create a video where one or more musicians play beautiful music as they explore the ‘invisible’ gem of Bukit Brown “
Environmentalist Cuifen wanted to make Bukit Brown more “visible” to share its beauty and tranquility.
The result ” Ukelady meets Ukebaba in Bukit Brown Conversations”
Please share, and share and share this video and let it go viral, so others can enjoy Bukit Brown too!
More on Cuifen’s thoughts on Bukit Brown in her blog Conscious Steps
Cuifen would like to thank :
Ukelady – Yen Lin
Ukebaba – Su Min
Video editor – Jasmine
Video & mic equipment – Ee Hoon
It was Singapore’s 48th National Day and Bukit Brown’s 91st year. We sang the national anthem and recited the pledge with gusto and with pride. But when it came to observing a minute’s silence to honour the pioneers who are buried in Bukit Brown, there was a palpable sense of sadness. We remembered especially those whose graves are to be exhumed to make way for the highway..
James Tann captured this poignant moment as some 80 participants from the guided walks , stood shoulder to shoulder with the Brownies
And the celebrations continued with cake, supper and music in the air.
And there was music
Earlier, the participants had fanned out over all 5 hills on a 2 hour walk, as the Brownies shared stories from beyond the graves, of the trials and tribulations of the early pioneers. The Brownies who led the guided walks for NDP2013 :Many Stories, One Singapore@Bukit Brown were, Yik Han, Fabian, Catherine, Peter, Mil, Bianca and Claire.

The group which covered Hills 1 and 3 led by Brownie Mil Phuah took their group photo at her grandfather’s tomb cluster (Photo Mil Phuah)
One of the first groups to arrive were the heroes who completed the full walk starting from Kranji, through the rail corridor and ended at Bukit Brown for the guided walks. — at The National Day walk for a Greener Singapore: Former Rail Corridor-Central Catchment Area-Bukit Brown Cemetery.
As Claire led a guided walk over hills 5 and 2, . A.J. Leow, a participant reflected :
Somebody has to tell the next and this generation — Who came before us….We need more storytellers to tell our history
“Why 星汌 — when they first arrive (by sea), they see the shimmering lights — and they know it’s where the stars beckon. They have arrived in Singapore. 星汌 is our version of the Statue of Liberty, 星 加坡 seems a better choice than 新加坡. Think of 星汌 the lights of the shimmering harbor lights (stars) as they see Singapore for the first time” A.J. Leow
Darren Koh was moved to pen a tribute to the Brownies.
“On behalf of the how many thousands who have heard the many stories, the many histories, the many tales from the Brownies: I thank you. I thank you all for showing us a part of the warp and weft of history hidden to many of us. I thank you all for the passion that all of you have put, all that you have contributed whether by way of knowledge and research, by bush-bashing and discovery, by organisation and dissemination of information, by just being a friendly face that says hello, or just being there.
Were it not for the rise of the Brownies, the Tomb Whisperer and his brother alone would never have been able to reach out to so many.
It is said, “Cometh the hour, cometh the man.” In this instance, it was two women, and then many more – men and women who have joined in: one has gone ahead to her rest, but many still come.
All you Brownies – you earned that title. For your ceaseless search of tombs, for your ceaseless dissemination of the stories found. For the many tours you have led. For those moments when you look at greenery and cry a little wondering how, how could it be torn up – and then look into the eyes of those listening to your words about the pioneers and say “Let’s go to the next tomb..” Thank you”
From Theresa Teng: “What could be more meaningful than spending Singapore’s National Day in a place where pioneers of Singapore lay rested. A minute of silent was observed to commemorate the 4000+ tombs that will be sacrificed for a new highway, that will be build to cut right through Bukit Brown cemeteries.I’ve never been more proud of my adopted country than at this moment. Everyone united to stand for a cause. Mind you, there are plenty of foreigners in the group who cared so much about the heritage of Bukit Brown too.Hopefully, it’s still not too late for a miracle to happen. Just maybe…….”
From All Things Bukit Brown, in gratitude : Without the support and encouragement of the Heritage Singapore – Bukit Brown Community we would not have traveled so far. Thank you for walking shoulder to shoulder with us.
And last but not least, we end with a moving tribute to the 4,513 graves that will be exhumed at Bukit Brown. Matt Tan, penned the words in the Peranakan style of the pantun. Claire Leow translated with poetic license.
- “When stories are lost, the narrative is broken” (photo Victor Yue)
4,153 tempat tido akan di korek
ape yaukin di bikin
kehilangan cherita tak boleh di gantikan
4,153 in repose to be deposed
Why the urgency ?
When the stories are lost, the narrative is broken
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